How to speed up internet without any software | Full Tutorial

Well in my this creation i will teach you, how to speed up your internet without any software. Its just a game of registry edit.

Yeah you can speed up you net by this tutorial. So lets start how it works and what you need to do :)

For Windows 2k/XP

1. First, open the Windows Registry using Regedit, and (after backing up) navigate to:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\ServiceProvider

2. Note the following lines (all hex dwords):

Class = 008 ( biggrin.gif - indicates that TCP/IP is a name service provider, don't change
LocalPriority = 1f3 (499) - local names cache
HostsPriority = 1f4 (500) - the HOSTS file
DnsPriority = 7d0 (2000) - DNS
NetbtPriority = 7d1 (2001) - NetBT name-resolution, including WINS

3. What we're aiming to do is increase the priority of the last 4 settings, while keeping their order. The valid range is from -32768 to +32767 and lower numbers mean higher priority compared to other services. What we're aiming at is lower numbers without going to extremes, something like what's shown below should work well ;)

4. Change the "Priority" lines to:

LocalPriority = 005 (5) - local names cache
HostsPriority = 006 (6) - the HOSTS file
DnsPriority = 007 (7) - DNS
NetbtPriority = 008 ( biggrin.gif - NetBT name-resolution, including WINS

5. Reboot for changes to take effect.



For Windows 9x/ME

1. The tweak is essentialy the same as in Windows 2000/XP, just the location in the Registry is slightly different. For a more detailed description see the Windows 2000/XP section above

2. Open the Windows Registry using Regedit, and (after backing up) navigate to:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\VxD\MSTCP\ServiceProvider

3. You should see the following settings:
Class=hex:08,00,00,00

LocalPriority=hex:f3,01,00,00
HostsPriority=hex:f4,01,00,00
DnsPriority=hex:d0,07,00,00
NetbtPriority=hex:d1,07,00,00

4. The "priority" lines should be changed to:

LocalPriority=hex:05,00,00,00
HostsPriority=hex:06,00,00,00
DnsPriority=hex:07,00,00,00
NetbtPriority=hex:08,00,00,00

5. Reboot for changes to take effect


System.ini IRQ Tweak - Windows 9x/ME ONLY

1. Find your Network Card's IRQ

1. In order to add the entry to your System.ini file, you'd first have to find your NIC's IRQ

2. Right-click on My Computer icon on your Desktop, then left-click on Properties (a shortcut for that would be to press the 'Windows' + 'Pause' keys). Navigate to Device Manager and double-click on Computer. Under "View Resources" you will find a list of IRQs, each with description of the device that's using it. Note the IRQ number used by your Network Adapter

2. Adding the entry to System.ini

1. Once you've found the IRQ of your Network Card, you need to reserve some RAM for its use, by adding an entry to the System.ini file. You can edit the file in any text editor, however the easiest way is to use Windows' built in "System Configuration Editor"

2. Navigate to Start > Run and type sysedit . Find the [386enh] Section in the System.ini file and add Irq[n]=4096 under it, where [n] is the IRQ number of your NIC and 4096 is the amount of RAM you want to reserve in Kbytes. We recommend using 4096, however you can experiment with different values if you want. Save changes in the file, exit and reboot for changes to take effect.

Note: If you choose to try different values, keep in mind that reserving too much RAM for your NIC will decrease the amount of RAM available for applications, while reserving too little might not give the desired effect. It is the one of the great creativity of Vivek Creations Now some additional thoughts.


3. Additional Thoughts


1. The only negative effect of the System.ini IRQ tweak is that it will reduce the amount of RAM available for running applications a bit, by reserving some specifically for your Network Card's use. The gain in performance usually outweighs the negative effect by far, considering any Computer with 32Mb of RAM or more

2. This tweak may or may not work for you. It is not a documented tweak by Windows

3. Keep in mind that if you add hardware to your system the IRQ of the Network Adapter might change, in which case you will need to modify the setting in System.ini

4. In systems with multiple NICs, you might want to add the setting for both IRQs. Also, you could reserve RAM for other IRQs if you wish, just use common sense and don't forget it reduces the amount of RAM available for running applications

5. If you are using an USB device, it does not have a specific IRQ, however you can try adding the entry using the IRQ of the USB Controller

6. For internal Cable Modems, you'd have to add the entry using the IRQ of your modem, rather than the IRQ of a Network Card.


RESULTS WILL VARY


No matter how good your systems may be, they're only as effective as what you put into them. Enjoy my creations and keep yourself updated here for more interesting tutorials.
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How to resolve Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error

What exactly is Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error code?


A Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error is the number and letter data format of the error message prompted. This is the popular error code layout used by Windows along with other Windows compatible software and device driver manufacturers.

This kind of computer code is required by the merchant to ascertain the error caused. This unique Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error has a numeric value and a practical explanation. Sometimes the error could have extra variables in Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab data format .The further hexadecimal code will be the address of the memory regions where the instructions are stored at the time of the error message.

The cause of Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error?



The Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error message may be due to Windows system file damage. Broken system files are usually a real threat to the performance of your system.
There can be numerous events which may cause file errors. An unfinished installation steup, a partial file erasure, bad erasure of applications or computer hardware. It can also be caused if the pc has caught a a virus or adware or spyware invasion or through an incorrect shutdown of the laptop or computer. Any of the previously mentioned activities may well end up in the deletion or corruption of Windows system files. A corrupted system file will lead to missing and erroneously connected data and archives necessary for the accurate working of the application.

Guidelines on how to simply resolve Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab error message?



The two main techniques to take care of Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab Error message:


Advanced User Remedy (manual update):
1) Start up the personal computer then log on as an admin.

2) Click the Start button then select All Programs, Accessories, System, and next select System Restore.

3) From the new window, select “Restore my personal computer to an earlier period” and after that click Next.

4) Find the most up to date restore date in the “click a restoration point” list, then click Next.

5) Click Next within the confirmation screen.

6) Reboot the pc after the rescue is done.


Beginner Remedy (completely automated):
1) Download this (Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab) fix software program.

2) Install software program and click on Scan button in the software.

3) Hit the Repair Errors button when the scan is successfully done.

4) Restart your computer system.

Here is an alternative Adobe Photoshop Cs2 Data1 Cab repair tool you may use if the previous option doesn’t work.

Optical Calibration: DVD Player Repair

We bought our DVD player way back when they were pretty friggin’ expensive, so naturally after we moved when it stopped working, I wasn’t about to just throw it away and buy another one. I’ve done a little bit of trial-and-error recalibration before, mainly on Sega Dreamcast consoles, so I figured I’d give it a shot.

Note: I take no responsibility for any damages that might result from you reading this article. You might damage your DVD Player even more from trying to re-enact the steps described below. Think about that before doing it.

The first thing you’ll want to do is open the drive tray on your DVD player. Sometimes it’s tough to get the unit apart when the tray is already all the way closed, so eject the disc, and while the tray is out, unplug the unit.

Next, find a nice comfortable place to sit down where there’s something grounded nearby – a computer desk is fine because you can touch the metal case of a computer (assuming your PC is grounded) and discharge any static electricity that might be in your body. The MPEG decoder and encryption-related ICs inside your DVD player are very very sensitive to electrostatic discharge. I’ve had at least a couple of junk devices where I have taken the lid off, stared at it, poked one or two things, put the lid back on, and the thing’s even worse off – the only explanation I can think of is ESD.

So ground yourself, and try not to scuff your feet on any carpet or anything while the lid’s off your DVD Player – just in case.

Next, pop the lid off the unit and set it and all the screws aside. Locate the power supply area, and stay well away from it. While the unit is unplugged, your chances of dying from an electric shock with the residual charge still in the PSU are pretty slim – but you probably don’t want to take the chances.

See if you can locate the lens and see it without removing anything. If you can, great – if you can’t, you might be able to get to it by moving the “eye” all the way to the end of it’s track, where it would sit while reading the outside portions of a disc. To accoplish this, look for the sprocket which is closest to the motor (furthest from the “rack” gear, or the eye) and give it a gentle turn with your finger. The eye should start moving out.

Some DVD Players (and indeed CD players and other stuff, the GD-ROM in a Dreamcast console comes to mind) use a Worm gear instead of a few gears and a rack. On those, you really don’t have much of a choice except to carefully nudge the eye along it’s track. It will probably make an ugly crackling noise during this time, and double check to make sure nothing’s broken. If you can see the motor that drives the eye, you can also use an AA battery and some wire, after finding the correction polarity, to drive the eye outwards. This mightn’t be a good idea while the motor is in-circuit though (still hooked up to the DVD Player’s “brain” so to speak), so I didn’t go into too much detail with this.

If you still can’t see the eye, you might need to take the actual reader apart. Your experience will vary, with mine I didn’t have to take it apart, so you’re on your own here. A tip though: be very, very careful with the ribbon cables – just the slighest lateral force on them is enough to rip them.

Now hopefully you can see the lens, and it’s time to give it a good cleaning. If you have a steady hand, I thoroughly recommend some strong Acetone to clean the lens with. Acetone is nice because it eats oil and everything else, but care must be taken to ensure you don’t put any of it anywhere except on the lens itself. If it touches plastic, it can misfigure it and cause a mechanical problem. If it lands on the ribbon cable, it can quite possibly eat the ribbon cable and ruin it’s ability to transmit a signal. Use extreme care!

Your other choices are Isopropyl and some dollar-store lens cleaning fluid. I would use the Isopropyl first, but that’s just me – I have no real reason or thinking behind this. It’s cheaper, how’s that.

Whatever you use, dip a Q-tip (cotton swab) into the fluid, then tap it on your pants, a piece of cloth or something else to make sure there’s no drips. Ideally, dip just the tip in, and hopefully the fluid will travel up the rest of the Q-tip through a fascinating process I believe is called Osmosis. You don’t want too much liquid on the swab anyway, but you definitely don’t want it to be dry.

Now swab the lens carefully – one complete turn should be plenty. Resist the urge to use the dry end to mop up if the lens is glistening, I believe you can scratch the delicate surface and scatter the beam worse than dust would. If it’s still glistening, leave it to dry – Isopropyl and Acetone both are somewhat volatile and will evaporate quickly without your help. Leaving it a good five minutes or so should be plenty if you’re concerned.

Once you’re convinced the lens is clean, take the player back to a TV and hook it up, dropping a disc in to see if it’ll play. It helps if you’re still near something to ground yourself on here, so you might want to bring a small TV to your work area. With any luck, the machine will play the disc perfectly. It shouldn’t realistically take any more than 5 seconds for the player to read the “Table of Contents” on the disc (for example, for the “DVD” light to light up). If you’re content with how things are going, button it up and call it a day.

Help! It still won’t play!


If your player is still dead (like mine), then it’s time to recalibrate and see if that helps. There are a few things you should know about blind-recalibration. Firstly, the method I describe here is not the correct way to do it – you need proper equipment and stuff to do it right. Second, it mightn’t be the problem to begin with. Third, it pisses off technicians if it wasn’t the problem, the machine malfunctioned due to some other problem, and you’ve twiddled with the adjustments to make their life harder.

Suffice to say, you should only attempt this on a machine that – if unsuccessful – you are going to throw away. If you have a $900 american-made, progressive scan DVD player – take it to a professional and don’t fuck with it.

Let’s go.

Look on the PCB attached to the lens assembly. Hopefully, you can see it without taking the device any further apart. Some DVD players will have one pot, some two, and very rarely you will have three. To understand how to adjust these, a little background is in order. It should be noted, that this is basically how I theorize it works – it might be incorrect.

The “eye” shoots a laser at a given wavelength (your DVD player will adjust the wavelength to read various “layers” of the disc, but this is unimportant for our understanding) at the disc. The disc then bounces the light back, or diffuses it, for a 1 or a 0 – I’m not sure which way around it is, but again, this is unimportant for the purposes of this text. Next, an eye “reads” the beam of light, and tries to decipher if it’s a 1 or a 0 bit.

This is where we have a problem, because the DVD player needs to know how much light constitutes a one or a zero, and where to draw the line. That’s what the calibration is for – it’s a no-holds-barred discrimination point between one and zero, black and white, on and off. It’s the line in the sand.

Sometimes, the line gets moved. The laser’s properties change. Maybe a component weakens, maybe the power supply weakens and the laser isn’t so strong. Whatever, if the line moves too far, the reader won’t be able to discern between ones and zeros, and you effectively are looking at a blank disc – from the binary point of view.

So, we can adjust the reader and calibrate it again, by moving the tiny potentiometer(s) on the PCB. If you’re really lucky, your unit only has one. If it has two, hopefully they’re labeled (mine was, see blurry image above). What you’re looking for is the pot which discriminates DVD signal. My unit has two pots, one is labeled “DVD” and the other “CD” – so I’m golden. The unit still plays video CDs, so I know to leave the CD one alone.

If you can, the easiest way to adjust it is while the drive is trying to read. I recommend a purpose-built plastic driver used for driving tiny adjustment pots, something with some bend in it. Push it into the pot, holding it very loosely so when the head moves the driver moves with it. Put a disc in the drive, and start rotating it back and forth tiny, tiny amounts. A little goes a long way here, ladies and gentlemen.

If you luck out, the player will act like most I’ve ever messed with, and “flick” the disc in small short bursts of acceleration, followed by the disc decelerating during the periods the motor has no power. This means it hasn’t picked up a bit stream yet, so keep fiddling. With just a small amount of patience and a little bit of luck, you’ll hit the sweet spot and the disc will spin up quite fast, and quite possibly even start playing.

You can either quit here, or try to find the two extremes where the unit stops being able to read the disc, and then aim for the “middle” of the adjustment. I quit as soon as the disc played, but it’s entirely up to you. The theory behind aiming for the middle is should it fall out of alignment again, you have a little bit to go before it’ll stop working. It’s your call.

Hopefully, it works for you. It’s worked for me, several times, thats why only i have wrote this creation and today sharing this with you all :)

How to install Perl Module using CPAN

At times, we need to install Perl modules that are not found in the official repository of a distribution. In that case, we have to revert to using cpan. CPAN stands for Comprehensive Perl Archive Network. It is an archive of over 16,000 modules of software written in Perl, as well as documentation for it. This tutorial will show you how to install a module using CPAN.

First we need to launch cpan. Type cpan in a terminal. If it is not already configured, then it will start to ask a series of questions. Just press Enter all the way until it asks for your location. Specify the location by entering the number for that location in the list shown. Then it will ask about your country, go ahead and type the number appropriate for your country. At the end you will see the cpan prompt like so


cpan>

To install a module, for example, Cache::Static, type the following at cpan prompt

cpan>install Cache::Static

It will ask you some questions, just press Enter to accept the defaults which almost always work. The module with all its dependencies will be downloaded, compiled and installed.

When you get back the cpan prompt, the module is installed.
Type quit to get out of cpan

cpan>quit

To confirm that the module is installed successfully, run this command

perl -e "use Cache::Static"

If you get no output, it means the module is installed successfully.

If you see the error “/bin/sh: cc: command not found”, then gcc is not installed. Install it like this on Debian, Ubuntu

aptitude install gcc

On Red Hat, Centos, Fedore, the following will work

yum install gcc

Finding MAC addresses of all devices in LAN

As simple my last creation How to share a directory using nfs my todays creation How to find MAC addresses of all devices in LAN is also very usefull and simple. Actually its just a sharing ;)

Recently I had to find mac addresses of all servers in the local area network (LAN) for preseeding Debian installations using PXE (I will soon write about it). Finding them is easy with nmap

I used the following command and I had the mac addresses along with their associated IPs of all devices in the LAN. To find mac addresses, nmap must be run as root

nmap -sP 192.168.2.*
Starting Nmap 4.11 ( http://www.insecure.org/nmap/ ) at 2010-03-31 12:39 EDT
Host 192.168.2.1 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:02:B3:40:E0:AA (Intel)
Host 192.168.2.2 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:02:B3:40:E0:A5 (Intel)
Host 192.168.2.3 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:02:B3:40:E0:A5 (Intel)
Host 192.168.2.11 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:1B:2F:6B:B7:AC (Unknown)
Host 192.168.2.34 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:1F:C6:C9:A7:54 (Unknown)
Host 192.168.2.39 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:17:A4:93:59:EF (Global Data Services)
Host 192.168.2.50 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:1E:8C:04:A5:1F (Unknown)
Host 192.168.2.57 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:05:5D:E0:32:DF (D-Link Systems)
Host 192.168.2.71 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:03:47:A9:F3:D1 (Intel)
Host 192.168.2.79 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:1C:C0:9D:7F:9D (Unknown)
Host 192.168.2.80 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:1C:C0:9D:7D:51 (Unknown)
Host 192.168.2.82 appears to be up.
MAC Address: 00:15:58:32:5C:F4 (Foxconn)
…..

How to share a directory using nfs

This creation will walk you through exporting a directory so that we can read from or write to it. I will make it really simple so that in emergency situations, you are good to go within a few minutes

First install nfs server (I am on Debian 5.0, other distributions would have a the nfs package name similar to that)

aptitude install aptitude install nfs-kernel-server

After we have the nfs server installed, you need to export the directory by using the /etc/exports file. The format of the file is:

dir_to_be_exported allowed_hosts(options)

I am just about to export my home dir and allowing only 192.168.2.10 to mount it, so in /etc/exports, I would the following:

/home/linuxgravity 192.168.2.10(rw,sync,no_subtree_check)

That’s it. That was so easy, isn’t it.

Restart nfs server:

/etc/init.d/nfs-kernel-server restart

Now it is time for us to mount the shared (exported) directory to mount it on an empty directory. So while in the 192.168.2.10, first we would create a directory

mkdir /home/remote_home

Now just mount it with the following magically command:

mount 192.168.2.2:/home/linuxgravity /home/remote_home

As you have already figured out, the format is mount nfs_server_ip:exported_dir mount_point

And now you can just read from/write to /home/remote_home easily.

The whole process takes only less than two minutes ;)

ssh passwordless authentication without keys

Imagine ever wanted to avoid the hassle of typing in the password while connecting to servers using ssh? Here is a really simply neat trick that will demonstrate how easy it is to accomplish it so it does not ask for password. And as a bonus, you will notice that the connection is surprisingly much faster than you originally thought. No, it is not about ssh keys.

Suppose you could control the master which would permit you to enter the door without a key and the path it takes is always the right hand path. While you are thinking about it and saying to yourself what it has to do with ssh, allow me to tell you that you will realize once you have read the whole article how it is going to help you a lot in understanding passwordless authentication using this method.

The first thing we need is simply two lines in .ssh/config inside your home directory. If the file is not there, just create it. So the two magic lines are:

ControlMaster auto
ControlPath ~/.ssh/master-%r@%h:%p

Now connect to any host and it will ask for password. What the heck? It still asks for password, I heard you saying. That’s alright. Just put in the correct password and leave that terminal open. Open another terminal and try to connect to the same host again as in the first terminal and voila the magic…

While you are thinking about how just two key words ControlMaster and ControlPath allowed you to connect to a host without password and also much faster, let me throw in another neat trick.

If you ever wanted not to have to open another terminal, simply connect as shown below and the ssh will go into background

ssh -N -f host


Enjoy Vivek Creations :)